It’s the first town in the first state.
For hikers, bikers, and history buffs,
there’s a lot to love about Lewes.

By MARJORIE PRESTON

LEWES, DE—According to guides at Cape Henlopen State Park, each day at about 3 p.m. a white deer steps out of the woods, to the delight and astonishment of hikers.
No photos are available of the albino deer (which may be as apocryphal as Sasquatch, or Nessie) but the story just adds to the charm of Lewes, Delaware, which recently marked its 375th anniversary.
At heart, the quaint historic seaport is a quintessential American small town.

Getting there
Kids never tire of the ferry ride from Cape May to Lewes. See some of the region’s historic lighthouses, as well as the occasional pod of leaping dolphins. Parents, take a book or board game—the trip is just under two hours.
In summer or on holidays, make a reservation. The trip is a bit pricey—$23 one-way for a car and single motorist November-March, $29 in-season, with a discount on the return fare—but consider it a necessary indulgence, at least once a year. Take the kids, load up the pets (leashed dogs are permitted on deck), and go. Foot travelers get the best deal—$7 to $9.50 one-way, less for kids 6-13, and free for children under six. Go to www.capemaylewesferry.com or call 1-800-64-FERRY.
Anchors aweigh!

Down on Main Street
For the essence of downtown Lewes, go to Second Street first. On Second Street—Lewes’s main drag—you’ll find great shopping, dining and sight-seeing in a quaint, almost Mayberry-esque setting.
Don’t miss:
• Wildflowers (gifts and a great selection of bath and body items);
• Down by the Bay (all things nautical, including ship’s bells and clocks);
• Thistles (affordable jewelry and fine art, including lots of collector’s-quality animation cels);
• And two great antique markets: the Lewes Antique Mercantile Gallery, and the Saxon Swan.
For exceptional dining, you can’t beat The Buttery. Get there for the prix fixe early dinner (three courses, $28), or prepare to splurge.
My favorite eatery is Books by the Bay, a beguiling little book store that also offers breakfast and lunch. The fireplace is usually ablaze on chilly days, and you can read (without buying) while you eat.
Also recommended: the Blue Plate Diner; Gilligan’s (only open in season, it serves the best crab cakes in town); the Lewes Bakery (also a sandwich shop); the friendly Lighthouse Restaurant at Fisherman’s Wharf; Striper Bites (as the name suggests, it has excellent seafood); and Irish Eyes. 
Sad news: several weeks ago the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory was destroyed by fire. We are happy to report the owners plan to rebuild.

What’s next?
Now you’re well fed. What else can you do in beautiful Lewes?
• Catch a charter boat for tautog, rockfish, mullet and mackerel. Visit www.billssportshop.com, anglersfishingcenter.com, fishlewes.com.
• Beaches, nature trails, bird sanctuaries and the Seaside Nature Center can all be found at Cape Henlopen State Park, which also has 24-hour year-round fishing, surfing, nature trails, biking and hiking in a rugged coastal setting. Free in the off-season, nominal cost in-season. Visit www.destateparks.com.
• Zwaanendael Museum. With artifacts depicting the British bombardment of 1812. Free. Call 302-645-1148.
• St. Peter’s Episcopal Church on Second Street. The surrounding churchyard has gravestones from the 16th century.

More musts
• Nassau Valley Vineyards. Picnic among the vines at the winery, just outside Lewes. Free self-guided tours. 302-645-9463.
• Rehoboth Outlets. Brave busy Route 1 to get big deals at three outlet centers (Reebok, Ann Taylor, Lenox, Pfaltzgraff, Black & Decker, Book Cellar, Geoffrey Beene, Banana Republic, Levi’s, London Fog and scores more).
• Rehoboth nightlife. Gay culture is predominant here, but all are welcome. Places to see and be seen: Blue Moon (35 Baltimore Ave.), Iguana Grill (52 Baltimore Ave.), the Purple Parrot (247 Rehoboth Ave.), Cloud Nine (234 Rehoboth Ave.), Sydney's (25 Christian St.), and Dogfish Head (320 Rehoboth Ave).
• Rehoboth Boardwalk. A mile long and worth the stroll, even in winter. Best bets: Grotto Pizza and Thrasher's French fries.  

For more info, visit www.leweschamber.com andwww.beach-fun.com.